The fabric of history: Hole's garments donated to textile collection

As a master gardener, businesswoman, education advocate, giver of hugs and high-ranking public official, Lois Hole was one of Alberta's most beloved citizens.

Her many dynamic roles, from working in the pea patch to serving as lieutenant-governor, are reflected in some of her favourite wardrobe pieces, which have been donated by her family to the university's clothing and textiles collection.

"The one I'm most familiar with is the long, blue dress," said son Jim Hole, gesturing to a plain, cotton shirt dress. "She wore that out in the greenhouse, with the running shoes. The way Mom was with clothing was all about being practical, being comfortable, buying clothes that make it easy to work and get around."

"But she could make an amazing transformation in the evening, because she loved opera and she went to a lot of formal evening functions. The only mistake she made was that she'd often ask my brother and I, 'How do I look?' She didn't have a daughter who could give her a good evaluation."

The collection is a snapshot of Hole's personality and of her multiple roles, said Marijke Kerkhoven, curator of the clothing and textiles collection. "These clothes encompass who she was."

The collection of 95 artifacts includes clothing and accessories Hole used in all aspects of her life, from her dirt-encrusted gardening boots and work baskets, to designer suits and ceremonial robes.

"We donated the clothing because the University of Alberta was special to Mom, and we felt it would be a beautiful way to remember her," said Jim. "It's comforting to know that these clothes will always be at the U of A, one of Mom's favourite places, and where she had some of her most meaningful experiences."

Lois served as U of A chancellor from 1998 - 2000, before being named as the province's lieutenant-governor, a role she held from 2000 - 2005, when she passed away at age 71. Lois received an honorary doctor of laws from the U of A in 2000, and was a Member of the Order of Canada. Her deep ties to the community were established in 1960 when she and her husband Ted bought a farm which eventually became Hole's Greenhouses & Gardens Ltd. Their sons, Bill and Jim, both graduated from the U of A with agriculture degrees and subsequently joined the business full time. It has grown into one of the largest retail greenhouse operations in Western Canada.

Lois's clothing will be used as a classroom resource for U of A life sciences students, studying all aspects of textile culture.

"This collection is significant for its link to a well-known personality who had warm ties to the community, and it also stands as a fine example of clothing designed for the mature woman," Kerkhoven said.

And, while the make and style of the garments are important, their true value lies in the stories behind them, Kerkhoven said. "You take note of everything about the garment, the material and the quality, but also the wear and the stains. These tell not only how the piece was made, but how it was worn."

When it comes to something like a gardening dress, a little bit of dirt can speak volumes.

"Mom didn't fear soil. If she had some mud on her shoes or some mud on her hands or on her face occasionally, it didn't bother her one speck. She was never embarrassed to come from the field and have a little bit of dust on her face," said Jim. "I think, in a sense, that because she was so practical about her clothes, she kind of freed her mind to concentrate on things she deemed to be more important."

The clothing and textiles collection, located in the Department of Human Ecology in the Faculty of Agricultural, Life and Environmental Sciences, houses more than 16,000 textiles, garments and related artifacts. The collection spans 250 years of fashions for women, men and children and also includes artifacts such as looms, spindles and clothing patterns.

The donation feels especially appropriate in the U of A's centenary year, said Jim.

"As the years pass, people can look at these clothes and they can see what the chancellor wore way back when and understand a bit more about who the chancellor was and who the lieutenant-governor was," he said. "A lot of the common items that are dismissed, they end up being the most cherished because we get rid of them. Well, that's just her everyday clothing, but 100 years down the line, they'll say, 'Wow, that's what they wore, that's what she wore.' I think that has a lot of value."