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Driving in the easterly direction, on the same side
of the road as Tollinton Market, the slightly
curving Upper Mall reveals a beautifully modulated
facade, prominent because of its mellow, red brick
Roman-arch arcading.
The General Post Office, with its commanding
presence on the Mall is among the most important
landmarks of the city. Its location at the corner of
two major roads—the Upper Mall and Nabha Road
(earlier Church Road)—has dictated its unusual
trapezoidal 'V plan form. It is significant not only
because of its special architectural character but
also because of its key role in initiating Lahore's
conservation movement and the rejuvenation of its
British-period architecture.
A general post office, which has long since
disappeared, was among the first British buildings
to be built after the annexation of the Punjab. Of
1849 vintage, it was sited in an area close to
Lahore Museum. The exact date of construction of the
present GPO building has been difficult to
determine. The Punjab Gazetteer of 1916 mentions
1905 as its date of construction, which would make
it a worthy contemporary of Bhai Ram Singh's Punjab
University Hall. But Dr. Saifur Rahman Dar, dates
the building belonging to the mid 1890s.
The first British-period building in Lahore to be
restored, GPO underscored the necessity of
documentation and conservation of historic
architecture in the city's downtown area. During the
mid-1970s, the original brickwork of the GPO had
been mutilated—the application of color crating
having destroyed its original features, resulting in
an anonymous and non-descript prospect.
An outbreak of fire in the early 1980s in one of
structures in the compound spurred a debate within
the Postal Department concerning its demolition, and
the construction of a multistory building in place
of the defaced historic structure. However, the
Heritage Foundation became the catalyst for
restoring the original historic building to its
former glory. The refurbished building is the result
of the close collaboration of Pakistan Post Office
with the Heritage Foundation in order to rebuild the
original features. Only one photograph of the
building could be located, which, along with a few
remnants of molded brick found in the rear of the
building, formed the basis of the facade's
rehabilitation.
The rhythm of repetitive Roman arch arcading on both
the road and courtyard aspects lends the facade a
graceful demeanor. The cadence to the centre of the
Mall Road facade has been achieved due to a
triangular pediment, while in the lower section of
ground floor arches deep grooves dividing the
masonry into sections gift it with an imitation of
Georgian-style stone courses.
The facade on Nabha Road sports a deorhi or porch,
which was probably a later addition. The centre of
each face—the two long wings with the junction
acting as the main entrance—has central, slightly
jutting out sections surmounted by triangular
pediments.
The corners and ends of the building are defined by
octagonal towers which rise above the two-storey
linear wings and are capped by cupolas. The main
tower is located at the junction of the two wings
and rises well above the corner towers as an
enormous battered element. The tower is crowned by a
large hemispherical dome, defined by buttress-like
elements, it carries enormous clocks on four sides.
The ensemble with classical roots has been entirely
refurbished, and is worth a visit. You can walk to
the rear where a compatible new wing encloses the 'V
shaped courtyard, providing a feeling of enclosure
and protection from new buildings that have been
constructed on the building's boundaries during the
last couple of decades.
A place worth noticing in the vicinity is an
Anglo-Mughal edifice, situated across Nabha Road
(Church Road) from the GPO. This is Shah Chiragh
Chambers which has recently been refurbished. The
building is named after the celebrated saint Shah
Chiragh, who lies buried on an eminence, at the rear
of the chambers. Although taken up for restoration a
decade and a half after the GPO, it is a worthy
effort and a step in the right direction.
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