|
To reach the shrine and mosque of one of the most
celebrated saints of Lahore, Hazrat Mian Mir, after
whom the whole area was named, you have to walk your
way through a set of winding streets from Allama
Iqbal Road.
Cruising
south past Mayo Gardens and approximately in the
centre of the two railway crossings, the road leads
off Allama Iqbal Road. The winding street leads to a
large open ground, opposite which is situated the
mausoleum of the great saint. Although a little out
of the way, it is worth the trek to view one of the
most celebrated mazars, the original building of
which has fortunately escaped the large-scale
restoration/reconstruction seen in many of Lahore
shrines.
As you enter the doorway, you enter a world pregnant
with spiritual energy, the hushed atmosphere of the
enclosure overpowering you with its effect. It is a
large compound, the beautiful mausoleum with its
unusual architectural character presenting itself in
its full glory.
Across the road to the east of
tomb of Hazrat Mian
Mir, is a large chahar bagh (four-quartered garden
or paradisiacal garden) in the centre of which
stands the serene tomb of Nadira Begam.
The whole area is known as Mian Mir after the saint,
and in fact the cantonment close by established by
the British in 1852 was originally given the name of
Mian Mir Cantonment—a tradition of naming after
historic structures of the Mughal period when the
first British cantonment was established as Anarkali
Cantonment named after the famous Mughal tomb of
Anarkali.
The 16th century saint Mir Mohammad or Hazrat Mian
Mir Sindhi Qadri (1531 - 1635), sometimes also
referred to as Mian Mir Bala Fir Lahori, hailed from
Siwistan, with a distinguished lineage traced back
to Hazrat Umar, the second caliph of Islam.
The impressive doorway of soft pink stone
embellished with ceramic tiles leads into an
enormous courtyard, dominated by a large tree,
through the foliage of which the Mughal tomb
carrying an unusual roof is visible. The sepulcher
itself is placed on a raised white marble platform
carrying delicate inlay patterns. The steps lead up
to the square structure, with overhanging chajja
(eaves), which carries the remains of the celebrated
saint. Although, some renovation is in evidence, the
tomb surfaces are beautifully embellished with the
fine Mughal fresco and ceramic tile work with
fretwork screens spanning the openings.
On the west of the enclosure stands a 5-bay mosque
roofed with comparatively shallow cupolas, rendered
in a combination of pink and white—this is the
historic mosque said to be of the same ancient
vintage as the tomb. Several cloisters line the
western and southern boundary of the enclosure, and
enormous trees and a multitude of pigeons creating a
hushed and secluded world.
The saint arrived in Lahore at the age of 25 during
the reign of Emperor Akbar. He went through a long
period of self-denial—which, it is said, extended to
40 years—when he would not sleep the whole night and
would fast for a whole week at a time, sometimes
prolonging the fast to a whole month. His piety and
practice of meditation and detachment endowed him
with a legendary status and it was widely believed
that in virtue, beneficence and learning he had no
equal. He was fond of religious, devotional
music—the sama'a—as well as the local ragas.
Among his most devout disciples was the poet-prince
Dara Shikoh, who has narrated at length the
extraordinary powers of the saint, and his habit of
shunning the world to engage himself in meditation
in seclusion and wilderness.
Dara Shikoh's father Shah Jahan also held the saint
in great esteem. The emperor twice paid his respects
to the saint when on his royal tour of Lahore, and
being conscious of the saint's indifference to
worldly wealth, presented him with simple gifts of a
rosary and turban of white cloth.
Hazrat Mian Mir died in the reign of Shah Jahan, in
Mohallah Khawafipura. It was Prince Dara Shikoh who
buried him in the present tomb and began its
construction, in an area which at that time was
known as Darapur established by the prince himself
and named after him.
 |